Type: Boulder, 14 ft
FA: Chris Zweig
Page Views: 1,588 total · 19/month
Shared By: Eric Heiden on Dec 5, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp, SCPC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Avoid private land on approach to public areas Details

Description

Most Popular version (v7): Stand start (may need to stack pads for shorter climbers to reach the starting holds), left in obvious round pocket out left, right in sidepull pocket, right heel up and cross left hand to crimp, top out straight up.

Original start (v8-9): stand start in the middle of the overhanging boulder, left hand in break, right directly above in sidepull pocket, right foot up, cross left hand to crimp...helps to be really strong, really flexible, and shorter for this variation. Can also start matched in the break for added difficulty, but this makes one feel like a human cork screw and it is very seldom sent this way.

Location

The center of the Standard American Boulder - From the main parking area on Frew Rd. follow the main trail and bear left at the crest of the hill (first sightings of main boulders).

While this boulder is on public land, continuing the trail any further downhill will lead to private land.

Protection

2 or 3 pads and a good spotter

Photos

Eric Heiden
Derry, NH
  V7
Eric Heiden   Derry, NH
  V7
Erin Becker getting the FFA of Standard American Accent:
vimeo.com/11558349 Dec 5, 2011