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Routes in Somewhere n00b

Bort S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
I Dress My Self T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Evil T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Todd, The TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Road to Utopia T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 508 total, 7/month
Shared By: Patrick Eger on Dec 5, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Slabby lower part is one big crux on crappy crimps and crappy feet. After the undercling is probably the real crux, disappearing feet and even more crappy crimps get you up to the ledge. Fun mantle over the ledge to finish may be yet another crux. Wanders a little far to the left of the bolt anchors, but safe as long as you've got a strong sheath on your rope for the swing =)

Location

Start ~5 feet left of Bort. Proceed directly up the face on some tiny hands and tinier feet to a decent rest at an undercling. Directly above the undercling is a left-leaning crack with an unexpected beta involving less of the actual crack than expected. Throw to the top left for a finishing jug and recover a bit. Traverse right across the lip directly under the anchors, and get up on top of the slopey ledge in any way possible. Finish as if on Bort.

Protection

Use Bort anchors.

Photos

caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
The true name of this route is 'The Little Todd' Dec 10, 2011