Type: Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,377 total · 9/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 4, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 - Climb through some choss and over grassy steps to a set of parallel dihedrals. Climb these (5.8) up to the ledge. Beware of loose rock along the way. Belay on gear at the ledge.

Alternatively, climb Strada del Verme slightly to the left. Belay at the base of the crack.

Pitch 2 - Start up the steep crack on fists and thrutches. The crack is flared inward, so it can be tricky to protect. Getting into the pod is the first crux. You can get a good rest here before you chimney out the right side. Pull yourself out of the overhang on arm jams, gastons, or any other kind of awkward maneuvering you can come up with. Once through this last bit of off-width, cruise overhanging but easier jams and face holds to an amazing belay perch. Belay on gear.

Descend - Forge upwards to the cape trail and descend via School Gate or Golden Valley; OR descend a faint trail back down to the base of the climb - there is one low 5th-class move.

Location Suggest change

From Music Hall, head right and up through the razor plants, gunning for the obvious crack at northeastern end of the auditorium.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 4" - doubles in the bigger stuff

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