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Routes in G Wall (aka H Face)

Boardwalk T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cave, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fallout TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Little Inch TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Shark's Tooth TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slingshot TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 707 total, 10/month
Shared By: dragons on Dec 4, 2011 with updates
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

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Location

Locate the bottomless chimney of Fallout. That's about 10 or 15 feet to the left of this route. To the right is Blocks, right next to The Cave.

Follow the blocky trail straight up to the finish.

Protection

Top rope. It's tricky to set an anchor for this. If you use the big staples up top, you're a bit too far left and wind up on Fallout. If you set your anchor on the trees and drape them over the corner from up top, you'll be on The Cave. Go somewhere between; you might want a redirect. It will help to have someone on the ground directing you.

Photos

Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
I agree this is more like a 5.7 and nowhere close to a 5.4. Tried leading it many years ago and backed out when I realized it was over my head at the time. The grade should be changed in my opinion. Jun 29, 2015
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
I've always looked at this as a potential trad lead, up the spiderwebbing finger cracks and then traversing the huge flake at the top to the anchors of Friction Pitch. Anyone done it? Aug 26, 2013
I have never top roped this climb before, but I have led it multiple times. The protection is pretty good. Most of the climb is 5.4 territory except for one 5.7/5.8 move after the first 15' of climbing. It's a fun lead! May 10, 2013
coldatom
Cambridge, MA
5.7+
coldatom   Cambridge, MA
5.7+
Best to use some nuts to set one arm of the TR anchor and the fixed staples for the other arm.
If you follow the line straight up the middle of , I think the route is way harder than 5.4. Certainly harder than Blocks, to the right. There's one move on the finger crack, near that 45° flake that's tricky. Especially for shorties. Mar 19, 2012