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South

5.7, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 2 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 1.7 from 7 votes
FA: Layton Kor and Chuck Alexander, 1959
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Bitty Buttress
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Bitty Buttress closure 2/1/24 DetailsDrop down

Description

The first pitch pretty weel defines the climb, straight up the large, right-facing dihedral to its top. This pitch is 5.7. Follow a faintly defined arete another long pitch (you can break into 2 shorter ones) to the top. After the first lead, the route has many possible lines, but following the least resistance keeps the route at 5.7.

Location

This route begins in the large dihedral 20 feet left of the start for Bitty Buttress route.

Protection

A standard rack; this can be done entirely with passive pro.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Zeller
Boulder, CO
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This route has potential but needs some major gardening. The route follows the dihedral but has lots of bushes and dirt. The line is very aestethic though. We did a bit of pruning just to get up it but it needs more work to earn the star it gets in Bob D'antino's book. I agree with his 5.8 rating. The second pitch (the one shared with A's Jax) is much cleaner and has a nice roof/chimney that looks much harder than it is. Jul 25, 2012
Joseph Aja
Littleton, CO
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] While I wouldn't normally give a route in this current condition two stars, I am going to go ahead and give this one two, because it really could clean up to be a BoCan classic for easy, adventurous multi-pitch. I pulled about a dozen bushes out of the crack today as I worked my way up and still had an awesome time. For the second pitch, we walked left to the middle of the slab that leaves the belay ledge and aimed for the slot/chimney above and slightly right. A #4 comes in handy if you don't mind the weight. The position and movement throughout were really nice; only diminished by the abundance of dirt and vegetation. I gave it a pretty good cleaning today though, so get out there and give it a go! Dec 22, 2019