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Routes in Babcock Preserve

Arise V7 7A+
Cool Hand Luke V4 6B
Full Traverse V6+ 7A
Landing The Lunar Module V6-7 7A+
Right Face V6- 7A
Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: Morgan Patterson
Page Views: 321 total, 4/month
Shared By: Morgan Patterson on Dec 2, 2011
Admins: Morgan Patterson

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

On the Entrance boulder sit start using small crimps just to the right of the overhanging tree fire straight up to the horizontal on tiny crimps and over the lip of the rock.

Protection

1 pad

Photos

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Hey! Whats up everyone. I have a quick question: I was at this boulder with my older brother yesterday, and I believe we were trying this problem. Is this the one that is on the slightly overhung portion of the boulder, just to the right of the tree, that starts down low with the left hand on a undercling ledge, and right hand on a small crimp with a thumb catch? first move i did was a hard lock off with the right hand to a bad crimp on the left, then a big move up to the top of a big pink feldspar crystal before a throw to the horizontal and topping out. it seems like there are so many lines and so many different variations on this boulder its difficult to tell if the one we did was this problem.... Nov 24, 2014
Excellent set of problems, only 15 minutes from where I work. Did Capn's mentioned V7 a cool spring afternoon in my Scarpa Vapors. Was an excellent time.

A fun V4: seated start, all the way on the right arete, diagonally up-left, mostly crimps, cranked a decent double dyno (for a 5'11 guy) at the top, two hands, finish about 4 meters away from the tree.

Cheers Apr 5, 2013
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
ya man! What's happenin'? The other stuff in the park is eh... short and okay... Cool Hand Luke boulder is probably the only other boulder worth the 5-10min walk and really only if you were bored and wanted to tick something on ur list. That main boulder has all the good hard lines and plenty of variations to keep you going for a while. If you want ideas for other areas to visit PM me. Dec 12, 2011
cstorms
North Bend, OR
  V5
cstorms   North Bend, OR
  V5
didn't realize this was captainmo, i think you or jason told me about this at go vertical.. fun little boulder. how are the other boulders at babcock? worth checking out? Dec 11, 2011
Morgan Patterson   CT  
 
Aug. 2004 (On a sweaty lunch break if I remember correctly) We climbed the shit outta that rock and the other two we could find in the park. Dec 9, 2011
cstorms
North Bend, OR
  V5
cstorms   North Bend, OR
  V5
did you get this fa a while ago? Dec 5, 2011