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Routes in {10} Backdoor

Another Overhang T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Back Door Man T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Basement Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Rock Falling S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Coach Demonstrates S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cowboy Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Pole T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dragon with Matches T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Everybody's Welfare S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Flying Teeth T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hao Ren Alang S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harley Davidson S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hermit Crab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Class Quickdraw S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Into Thin Air TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jeff's RP Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just Five-Thirteen S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lava Tube S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lion Queen S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Motorcycle S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
New Ferrari S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Phantom Fright T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Po V-easy 3
RCC TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Redhead S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rodeo Clown T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Security Blanket T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sidestep T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Slab Sea T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Three Legged Cat S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Three-Legged Dog T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Twisting S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under the Staircase TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Vita S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Water Heater Route T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Who Fooled Who? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: Jeff Wang (08/91)
Page Views: 52 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 1, 2011
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

This route climbs mostly through ramp-like 5th class after a seriously hairy boulder problem to get up into it. The holds are good, but as the 2007 guidebook states, "it may be difficult for shorter climbers." Since you're essentially wrestling this monster upside down with a rack of trad gear, no protection, and you're falling backwards onto a steeply sloped platform and into a shallow pool, you might want to bring a crash pad and/or a gaggle of spotters. Alternatively, you could start up Basement Corner and traverse left across the wall and into the chimney.

Once established, you run it out through super-easy terrain for a good 30 feet until you get to the roof, where you traverse left (5.7), continue up by any path you choose (probably avoiding dirty cracks and bushes) to a ramp where you can belay. I would recommend continuing the last 20 feet to the anchors atop the cliff, where you can enjoy a beautiful panorama of the east coast below you.

Be sure to use runners for any early protection, and for the leftward traverse, especially if you're planning on going all the way to the top.

Location

Far left side of the Basement. Start below the wide chimney.

Protection

Gear to 3"

Photos

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