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Face Of A Dictator

5.11a/b, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 31 votes
FA: ?????
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Hairpin Turn Area > Pinhead Wall

Description

Technical climbing and puzzling sequences on steep rock.

Location

First route left of Pinhead Crack. Heads up face to a wide pillar.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John styling the upper section
[Hide Photo] John styling the upper section

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jimbo
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Mary and Rays route is a letter grade or two harder than Go Speed Racer. More like .11a/b. Top half is really good. Opening moves are weird and troublesome. Nov 29, 2011
Christian RodaoBack
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] Groundfall runout from 3rd to 4th bolt, it's on easier ground but also where there's a lot of crappy rock. Dec 9, 2011
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
  5.11a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] Could be a decent climb with 2 more bolts. Easy climbing through the 2 runout areas, but the rock is crap there. A pack of playing cards size chunk of the nice ledge I was clipping from popped off under my foot while I was clipping the 4th bolt. Would have been a grounder if I hadn't grabbed the draw. Stay to the left when going for the chains. I was a bit spooked after the 4th clip and was looking for easy ground to get to the chains and went for the big holds to the right of the chains. Bad idea since my big handhold broke off just as I was clipping chains. Could easily have been a 30 footer onto a ledge. Great solid holds if you stay to the left though. Don't really understand the reason for the runouts. Plenty of solid rock to put in 2 more bolts to keep people off the ground and big ledges. It would be totally different if it was nice solid rock, but it's not. Dec 24, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Crimpy, hard, I think its well worth doing if you are over here. Do Go Speed Racer first as it is better. Apr 8, 2013
Aaron B
 
[Hide Comment] I thought that this route and zerbina had really great movement despite the 1.5 star rating. That being said, I'm pretty light so it didn't seem like any crimps were gonna break off under my weight like my heavier friend felt. Nov 14, 2018
Ben Daniels
[Hide Comment] Hey now Aaron my excuses weren't supposed to make it to the internet! But yes this wall would be a gem if the rock quality was a bit better. As it stands, the climbs are fairly dirty and the lower sections are often loose. Go Speed Racer suffers from none of these problems and so deserves it's high rating. Nov 14, 2018
Colton Jang
 
[Hide Comment] beta intensive, especially leading up to the second clip. rest of the climb is straightforward and enjoyable.

first 11a lead and felt great Feb 21, 2025