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Needle Noggin

5.10b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 41 votes
FA: JSt,EFR,'11
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Hairpin Turn Area > Pinhead Wall

Description

This climb has multiple steep sections separated by moderate sections or ledges. The finish is a little airy and you have to make a move or two to reach the chains.

Location

Starts on a short steep section of rock that leads to a big ledge. Climbs up to the right of the trad route Unfinished Symphony.

Protection

Bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Doug Cornick redpointing the route. The dihedral up and left of Doug is the corner on Unfinished Sympathy.
[Hide Photo] Doug Cornick redpointing the route. The dihedral up and left of Doug is the corner on Unfinished Sympathy.
John looking good
[Hide Photo] John looking good
Doug Cornick about to work up and right through another steep section.
[Hide Photo] Doug Cornick about to work up and right through another steep section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jimbo
[Hide Comment] A must to for the very same trad climber that just did Unfinished Sympathy and happens to have enough draws in his/her pack. Nov 29, 2011
Christian RodaoBack
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b PG13
[Hide Comment] Just right of "Critic's Choice". Jan 17, 2012
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b
[Hide Comment] Watch for ledge fall potential on this one - it’s a heads up lead & belay. Very enjoyable otherwise. Mar 14, 2021
John Steiger
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] A worthy warm-up for the difficult climbing to the left. Be circumspect pulling the rope after the draws have removed; there is rope-catching ledge with some loose rock than can come down during the last pull (a soft-ball-sized one just glanced me). Mar 29, 2021
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Like many good routes on Lemmon, this one looks like crap but climbs like gold. Feb 6, 2023