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Unnamed Bolted Face

5.10b/c, Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 29 votes
FA: Henry Barber, retrobolted in 2010
Massachusetts > N Shore > Cape Ann > Redrocks & Vici… > Pink Floyd Wall

Description

Make reachy moves on thin edges to a sort of cool stemming crux (using the left side of the Dark Side Flake).

This may be the only true face climb at the otherwise slabby Redrock.

Location

The Pink Floyd Wall is the first (small) wall one comes to on the approach to the main cliff. This climb ascends up the face on the left of the prominent Dark Side flake.

Protection

3 bolts to TR anchors at the top. The anchors are set back from the main face, so this requires long slings to set up properly.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Matt working his way up a little after the crux.
[Hide Photo] Matt working his way up a little after the crux.
Matt making the last clip, this was an intentional try hard face.
[Hide Photo] Matt making the last clip, this was an intentional try hard face.
Two side-by-side photos of the route showing where I think the key flake hold broke near the 2nd bolt.  The left photo was taken from Mountain Project and is from 2011 (photo by Jim Dangle).  The right side photo I took in October 2022.
[Hide Photo] Two side-by-side photos of the route showing where I think the key flake hold broke near the 2nd bolt. The left photo was taken from Mountain Project and is from 2011 (photo by Jim Dangle). The r…
A view of Unnamed Bolt Route from the ground.
[Hide Photo] A view of Unnamed Bolt Route from the ground.
A view of the route from the right side.
[Hide Photo] A view of the route from the right side.
A view of the route from the ground.
[Hide Photo] A view of the route from the ground.
The climbs heads straight up between the micro-corners on the wall.  Note the bolt just visible on the left.
[Hide Photo] The climbs heads straight up between the micro-corners on the wall. Note the bolt just visible on the left.
Climbs on The Pink Floyd Wall at Redrock in MA.
[Hide Photo] Climbs on The Pink Floyd Wall at Redrock in MA.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jim.dangle

  5.10
[Hide Comment] If anyone knows anything about the this climb, let me know and I'll add it.

Thanks,

Jim Nov 27, 2011
[Hide Comment] So far as the verbal history goes... this is a Henry Barber first ascent. It was originally lead on just 2 RPs (yuck!). Some damn eager beaver named Matt Natti bolted it in 2010, thinking that it was just a TR line. After I discovered the mistake... Henry Barber was contacted and officially said he is against bolting at all, but he unofficially let this incident slide. For any potential "choppers" - please know that the second bolt is in a hollow section of granite, hence the glue-in ring. If this was chopped, it could fracture the outermost layer of the rock, which would probably make an awesome 5.10 into a 5.7... so please leave the crowbars at home. Dec 4, 2011
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Does anyone think we could give some of these unnamed climbs names? Perhaps Pink Floyd albums would keep the theme going? Jan 8, 2012
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Maybe we could ask Henry Barber for a name, since he is credited with the FA? Jan 8, 2012
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Right, so I chatted with Matty, and Barber never named his routes. So out of respect, we'll just have to leave this one. But in the interest of organizing things out here, the routes have been given proper names after Pink Floyd albums...chronologically from left to right. Jan 8, 2012
[Hide Comment] Such a good route, varied slab at the bottom and thin and techy stemming and crimping at the top to a crescendo "thank God", juggy finish. I think that the bolts should stay and not be chopped, it's such a beautiful lead, and climbing it on TR is fun, but leading it is an amazing experience. It took me a lot of moving up and down just before the crux trying to visualize the sequence before I committed to firing to the top. Jul 18, 2012
Dan Pfistner
BEVERLY, MA
 
[Hide Comment] I wanna see someone less than 5'7" or so give this a go. I'm 5'10" and feel just barely tall enough to keep this in the 5.10 range for me. A new favorite route for me nonetheless. Apr 20, 2013
Zac Clark
NH
 
[Hide Comment] Anyone know what's up with the anchor bolt that's missing a hanger? Should a hanger be put back on, or is there a reason it was pulled off? Nov 10, 2016
John Goodlander
NH
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] The anchor bolts are good as of May 2019. The first bolt is rusted but seems ok. The other bolts are fine. Really fun climb and safe with the bolts. Would be basically a solo if the bolts were chopped. Thanks for bolting and thanks to Mr. Barber for letting it slide. May 19, 2019
Blake D
Wenham MA
[Hide Comment] A couple weeks ago I broke off part of the hold to the left of the 2nd bolt... seems to have made it a bit harder. :) Nov 6, 2020
Luke Lalor
Bellevue, WA
[Hide Comment] Perhaps I am dense, but this route seems much harder now. I couldn't send it, so I can't chime in but am curious to hear what people think the new grade is. May 8, 2021
Jamison Knowlton
Gloucester, MA
 
[Hide Comment] I haven’t climbed this since the broken hold. I’ll have to give it a try. I’ve whipped on that “hollow” bolt plenty of times. May 3, 2022
Joel Dashnaw
Salem, MA
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] I attempted this route today, and I could not figure out how to do the upper crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Unless there is some very specific beta that keeps this route in the range of 10+, I think that this route is likely now an 11 (after the breaking off a key handhold flake to the left of the 2nd bolt) and perhaps even as hard as 11+. I'm looking forward to reading other people's thoughts in the future and to see what the new consensus will be. Nov 5, 2022