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Routes in Pink Floyd Wall

Animals TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Atom Heart Mother S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dark Side of the Moon T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Meddle T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ummagumma V0+ 4+
Unnamed Bolted Face S,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wish You Were Here TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: ???
Page Views: 725 total · 10/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

Start well left under the bolted face and climb up and to the right on a couple of thin edges to base of flake, then undercling and layback the flake to the top. The crux is probably getting fully onto the flake.

The flake is a cool feature that offers moves reminiscent of other (taller and better) climbs.

Location

The Pink Floyd Wall is the first (small) wall one comes to on the approach to the main cliff. The climb ascends up and around the flake that is probably the most prominent feature on the cliff.

Protection

Bolted TR anchors.

I thought I remember this flake expanding a bit (a long time ago), but it felt pretty solid the last time I climbed it. It could be led, but you would have to place gear semi-blind and would be pretty strenuous. It would be good practice though for harder climbs maybe, but it is a fun top-rope.

Photos

Ryan Scott
Watertown, MA
Ryan Scott   Watertown, MA
I was here a few days ago and the bolt hangers at the anchor were gone. The bolts are still there in the rock but someone must have taken the hangers off. Sep 21, 2015
jim.dangle  
 
Erik,

Did you start in the same place as the 5.10 and then head up under the flake?

If you start to the left of the vaguely obscene tree and head up and slightly left up into the flake, it's harder. Maybe 11ish. The moves involve some fun, super thin edging that will eat your shoe if you are not careful. Bouldery and unprotected if you are not on top-rope.

Jim Apr 30, 2013
erik kapec
prescott, az
erik kapec   prescott, az
Climbed it today and definitely was curious if anyone has had that flake catch a fall.... I also thought getting into the flake was slightly harder than the .10 to the left. Apr 30, 2013
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
Yeah, I have been wondering about that chippy. Mar 1, 2012
JChepes
West Ossipee, NH
JChepes   West Ossipee, NH
Hmmmmm, expanding flake+trad gear? Jan 9, 2012
jim.dangle  
 
I climbed this from the left heading up right to the flake, but it looks like there might be a pretty hard direct start-- anyone done that?

Jim Nov 27, 2011

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