Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Edwards 1999
Page Views: 1,862 total · 21/month
Shared By: Trevor V. on Nov 27, 2011
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

The route just to the right of caveman. It starts on a small boulder next to the wall where you can reach up and clip the first bolt from the ground. The start is as hard as it looks. Sustained hard moves end at the caveman anchor. The route is very well protected and can be toproped using a directional bolt found at the top.

Location

The route is found at the caveman boulder located down and to the left of the entrance boulders. Stay to the left after you arrive at the first boulder at potters. Follow the rock cairns or bushwhack down to the back side of caveman. The bottom is accessed around the left side. Omega Glory is the 2nd route from the right, that heads up the steep face.

Protection

5 bolts to the anchors

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
The best sport-climb I've ever encountered in SB. Hands down. Every single move is memorable. Dec 3, 2011
steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
I'm going to agree on this one. One of my favorites and not just because it's hard (for me). Super fun moves all the way. Dec 22, 2011
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.13a
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.13a
Lots of chalk on the route. Who else has been working it besides me? Jan 7, 2012
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Bernd goes up there a lot, and I've been up there a bit too. The chalk is probably Bernd's. He was up there last week. Jan 7, 2012
Trevor V.
Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.13a
Trevor V.   Santa Barbara, Ca
  5.13a
This line is too good....you will dream of it until you send. Mar 9, 2012
steve edwards
SLC, UT
 
steve edwards   SLC, UT
 
I'm really glad people like this route. I've put up a lot of bad routes in my time but this one I loved and for the longest time no one would go up there. Psyched to see people enjoying it. Mar 14, 2012
Will Barnes
Edmonton, AB
  5.13a
Will Barnes   Edmonton, AB
  5.13a
Not a move on this thing that isn't classic! Definitely one of the best hard routes in sb, although trebuchet now gives it a run for its money. Can't wait to get back on it Jul 15, 2013