Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 10 pitches
FA: G. Melzi, and G. Zecchini, 1893.
Page Views: 130 total · 2/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 26, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Begin on an easy ascending traverse from the scree, diagonalling upwards to the left by following a prominent ledge system, and ultimately reaching the NW ridge proper. Follow the narrow ridge towards the summit, reaching another major ledge system. Follow the distinct ridge/arete to a platform below the startling summit block. Move around onto the North face and then upwards through a 40 meter long steep gully to a low point in the summit ridge. Climb over several blocks to the actual summit.

Descend over the south shoulder, down the "Normalweg," UIAA Gr. II-III to the Rosetta Hut. The funicular may be taken back to San Martino di Castrozza.


The start of the climb may be reached either from Passo Rolle or San Martino di Castrozza.


Mostly fixed anchors. Bring a light widely spaced rack and runners.