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Cowboys and Aliens

5.9, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Refuge > Faulty Towers > Alien Wall
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Start left of "Eagles and Aliens" and about 20-30 ft right of the right leaning main gully/crack system on the left side of Alien Wall. Climb face past slightly tricky gear to vertical crack to small roof and bulges to top. A bolt added to protect the slightly runout face prior to the vertical crack.

Location

Middle of the face, just left of Eagles. See map.

Protection

FA done ground up without bolt. Single bolt added to help with the runout. Protect below the bolt with a 0.4, 0.3, and C3 Camalots depending on your comfort level. It is a bit thin. Above bolt medium cams and both a 2 and 3 inch protect well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hanna on right just past bolt on "Cowboys and Aliens". Roman on "No More Aliens." Vertical crack to left of rope is start of "Aliens".
[Hide Photo] Hanna on right just past bolt on "Cowboys and Aliens". Roman on "No More Aliens." Vertical crack to left of rope is start of "Aliens".

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
[Hide Comment] maybe on the hard side of 5.9, especially given the thin protection before the first bolt. Dec 19, 2011