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Escaping the Torch

5.9, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 7 votes
FA: Arjun Heimsath and Kabir Heimsath
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Refuge > Faulty Towers > Glade Wall
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

Left most climb in the glade area and the first climb set for this area. Done ground up with no idea what the rock quality would be. This route turns out to have the best rock of the area. Start at a blocky crack immediately left of a wide crack (with a tree half way up). Follow a disconnected crack system that veers left and then back right over a slight bulge near the top. Anchors and standard biners at top. Recommend doubles to 1 inch with potential for stopper placement in some of the cracks.

Location

Far left of Glade Wall -- see route map.

Protection

Doubles to 1 inch.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] An excellent trad pitch with solid rock and fun climbing. Nov 25, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Getting back on this climb after such a long time since setting it was a delight -- the rock quality is the best for Glade Wall and almost as good as Double Fault, and the climbing is indeed fun. A good escape! Oct 2, 2012