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Routes in Punta Fiames

"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face, "Via Commune." T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 1350 ft, 15 pitches, Grade III
FA: F. Jori and Kaethe Broske, 19 August 1909.
Page Views: 3,578 total, 49/month
Shared By: Rodger Raubach on Nov 25, 2011
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description

The route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options become more and more limited as the arete narrows; stay on the crest for the most part, with occasional excursions to the right (East).

This route is characteized by excellent rock and great protection.

Descend by means of a path to the North leading to a scree gully; the gully ends at a marked path.

Location

The route begins at the SE base of the formation and follows the "Via Commune" for several pitches

Protection

Mostly fixed protection; bring a light rack with a few larger camming devices (#3 Camalot). Bring plenty of slings.
Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs" lists this as Route 51. There is a fairly good topo included. Nov 25, 2011