"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete

As with many of the early Dolomiti climbs that follow large crack systems, this route is a total sandbag at its 5.7 rating.  It is not 5.7 but more like solid 5.9.  There are several pitches with wide 5.9 climbing with just ok protection.  Any climber venturing onto this route should be a solid 5.9 climber with offwidth experience and be comfortable with some runout climbing.  While there is fixed protection on this route, there are still moderate runouts on moderate terrain up to 5.7 or 8 and one can expect to grovel at various points on this route.  All that said, it is a classic for sure.  A proud line done well over a century ago.  It boggles the imagination that the FA was accomplished when it was.  

The route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options become more and more limited as the arete narrows; stay on the crest for the most part, with occasional excursions to the right (East).

This route is characteized by excellent rock and great protection.

Descend by means of a path to the North leading to a scree gully; the gully ends at a marked path.