"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete
Avg: 4 from 8 votes
Routes in Punta Fiames
|"Spigolo Jori," SE Arete T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|South Face, "Via Commune." T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Type:||Trad, 1350 ft, 15 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||F. Jori and Kaethe Broske, 19 August 1909.|
|Page Views:||3,578 total, 49/month|
|Shared By:||Rodger Raubach on Nov 25, 2011|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionThe route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options become more and more limited as the arete narrows; stay on the crest for the most part, with occasional excursions to the right (East).
This route is characteized by excellent rock and great protection.
Descend by means of a path to the North leading to a scree gully; the gully ends at a marked path.