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Routes in Godhead North

Fear No Evil S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
God’s Must Think I’m Crazy, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hallelujah S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Jam of Doom T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Low Hanging Fruit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wanger Hanger T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wind Up on Sundays S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Arjun Heimsath and David Sampson
Page Views: 43 total · 1/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Mixed route protected with added bolts. The first climb in the God Head Area. Located on the left side of a tall wide tower. This long fun route ascends the obvious west, north-west facing arête. Route was originally set by AMH while rope soloing. Ground-up attempt was aborted at a narrow ledge to the right of the overhanging crux. Some bolts were added solo from top-rope and the route sent with a slightly different route. When DAS followed it became clear that the line was not ideal and we moved the only two bolts and added 3 bolts to protect the crux. There are two ledges on this climb.

Thin bolt protected crux moves above the first ledge gets you established on the upper portion of the arête over slightly overhanging rock. To be safe you will probably want to place a 0.5 or 0.75” cam towards the top of the crux sequence in the ample horizontal cracks that are bomber. From the large top ledge climb 15 more feet to get to the anchors. Small to medium cams. Rap from anchors into the gulley. A 60 m rope gets you to easy down climbing back to base of the climb. Or, rap left to a ledge to access Fear No Evil.

Location

The farthest north arête of Godhead North, see route map for location relative to others.

Protection

5-7 bolts protect small to medium cam placements that are tricky and insecure down low and bomber up high. Save a 0.25 or 0.3 to clear the upper face to anchors. A medium cam helps protect the long crux.
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
Watching Geir sail the onsight of this yesterday was a real treat! There are more bolts than I remember placing and I imagine the PG13 rating can be removed, as well as the difficulty as the crux is now bolted. How cool to have Geir and Jimbo out there and nail this! Oct 30, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Terrific exposure on a gorgeous feature. Kudos to Arjun for a strong ground up FA on this route. Singles to .75 Camalot are fine to protect this route. With the added bolts the climb protects well. I used a blue alien to protect the final moves after the ledge. Oct 30, 2012
Awesome send Geir! What an on-sight; it was fun to watch! Nov 13, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
Another elegant and graceful send of this route yesterday by Jimbo. Nicely done! Nov 19, 2012
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.11
Finally got back on this one too and it's terrific. Definitely much easier than originally thought and the added bolts help it climb smoothly and without stress. A great topout to oversee the whole Refuge! Didn't place anything larger than a #1 and may not have even placed that. A few small cams down to a C3 0 certainly would be nice and the 0.5 or 0.75 helps the runout through the crux section. Feb 10, 2014

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