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Routes in The Bulges

1923 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
3RNs T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dr. No Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Octabulgey T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
You Only Nest Twice T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Arjun Heimsath
Page Views: 42 total, 1/month
Shared By: arjunmh on Nov 25, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area Details

Description

Continuing the James Bond naming theme...(i.e. from "You Only Live Twice")
Right leaning wide crack through lower section of broken rock. Climb up from this easy crack into the vertical crack that leads to the top. Careful climbing to avoid the raptor nest on the ledge near top. Some loose rock remains despite extensive climbing, but the protection is solid and the climbing is better than expected. Note that the crux is protected with an added bolt because of the somewhat tricky and small gear used to protect the committing move through the bulge.

Location

See route map and note the name change.

Protection

Single bolt protects the thin section that was originally climbed using only C3’s. Cams to #3 with doubles of small stuff.

Photos

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Finally did this again yesterday and it's nice. Reasonable to do with a single rack to #3, saving the #3 and #2 for up above the bolt rather than in the wide and easy crack below. NOTE that if it weren't for the James Bond theme this would be called "You Only Nest Once" as the nest is on top of a large and loose block. I thought it obvious not to step on or grab the nest and so did not remove either. But, just in case it's not obvious hopefully you read this before climbing this. Feb 10, 2014