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Routes in Center/Headwall

Being and Nothingness S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0+
Black Castle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Center Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Commander, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diamond of San Diego S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Halcyon S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Napoleon S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pockets of Resistance S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Right as Rain T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sole Purpose S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Spitfire T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Storm T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Swiftness Direct T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Swiftness, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tears of Envy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thunder S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walter Cat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 450 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Randy Leavitt et al? Early 2000s
Page Views: 2,951 total, 40/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Nov 24, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Varied sport climbing up the center of El Cajon Mountain. A mix of easy and difficult pitches separated by comfy ledges.

Pitch 1 (5.9): A short pitch that starts on a right facing wall.
Pitch 2 (11a): Known as "The Box Pitch", this pitch begins with a tough mantle and continues to be quite powerful. Tough for the grade.
Pitch 3 (10b): Leads to the right side of Command Center Ledge.
Pitch 4 (10b): Climb classic the arete of the "Center Block" on positive holds. The view from here is amazing. You can stop at the top of the Center Block (5.9) or continue up (10b).
Pitch 5 (11d): Straight up on a classic ECM headwall pitch.

Location

Center of ECM El Cap Wall. Start on a right facing wall.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

Prithipal Khalsa
San Diego
 
Prithipal Khalsa   San Diego
 
Only did the first 2 pitches. The 2nd pitch is harder than 11a for sure. That being said it is the best sport pitch in San Diego. Starts off with a spicy mantle protected by a bolt that is starting to come out of the rock. Very sustained with a bit of great exposure. May 11, 2017
Sqmot
San Diego
 
Sqmot   San Diego
 
Excellent Climb for anyone climbing hard 10s & easy 11s; and wanting to improve on fantastic rock.
P1 is very short and easy warm up,
P2 is the money time for sure. Followed it going left of the roof, however some of my friends went diagonally right for a few moves and said it felt easier. Definitely a sustained, pumpy section follows (11+ in my opinion)
P3 & P4 are perfect ECM style decompression pitches, very nice 10b
P5 is great but harder as well. Highly recommend trying toping out on Tears of Envy 11b, sustained, with a couple rests, but easier than P2, one of the best easy 11 in SD county
cheers! Oct 19, 2013
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
P2 is a good one to follow Bob H ! Mar 14, 2013
I just climbed the first two pitches before bailing due to a sick partner. Pitch 2 is serious, as stated above. There is a lot of 11a (or harder?) on it, and a lot of bad fall potential until you have the 3rd bolt clipped. I think it is very possible to hit the ledge below if you made a mistake in the wrong place. The 3rd pitch appeared to be fully bolted, and fantastic. I look forward to going back and seeing what the upper three pitches are all about. Nov 25, 2012
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Ben, it wasn't really my style enough to want to put in the effort... prob not anytime soon. Mark, glad I wasn't the only one. I don't think I could have pulled to the anchors on lead, assuming I would even have made it that far! Jun 13, 2012
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
P2 is one of the few leads I have backed off of in my climbing career. I have TRd it since and am glad I backed off. 11a is from the guidebook but for me it felt much harder. May 8, 2012
Ben May
Escondido, CA
Ben May   Escondido, CA
Not what I wanted to hear, TJ! hahaha ...you think you might try it again? May 7, 2012
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
P2 is freakin hard, assuming it includes moving over and left of the roof, then up over the thin face. I followed it and probably would have freaked out had I been on lead. Harder than 11b/c's at Riverside, that's for sure. Feb 11, 2012
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
See above, that is what I usually do. I have recently finished on Tears of Envy with brings you out left a bit and it gets you high up. Dec 19, 2011
Joseph Lascurain
Cincinnati
Joseph Lascurain   Cincinnati
Any recommendations for alternatives to pitches 3 & 5 if they are down. CH's guide makes it look like you could do Pie in the Sky for pitch 5. And if that is chopped, you could bring gear and finish on center direct. What about pitch 3?

Joseph Dec 14, 2011
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
Pitches 2 and 5 are serious pitches. A fun intro to the center area of ECM is the following:

1 (5.9): Diamond of San Diego.
2 (10a): Thunder (walk left on not so grassy ledge a bit).
3 (5.10b): Diamond of San Diego, Center Block. Far right of Command Center Ledge. 5.9 If you stop on top of the block.

Pitches 3 and 5 of Diamond may or may not have bolts in place right now. Nov 24, 2011