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First Trapps Chimney

5.5, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 1.7 from 12 votes
FA: Dick Williams and Cherry Merrit
New York > Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
Access Issue: 2019 Peregrine Closure Details
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details


This route intersects the bolted rap line for High E (depending on exactly where ropes are tossed). We used this as a warmup climb since a large group was starting up High E when we arrived.

P1 5.5 G -- Follow crack/corner to blockier terrain above, eventually ending at rap anchors.

P2 -- Continue up corner. We did not explore this pitch due to the impending rappelling.


To the right of the Directississima face is a chimney. 15 feet to the right of the chimney, start at a flared crack and a short right-facing corner.


Standard rack (#3 C4 helpful). Anchors.

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Looking up "First Trapps Chimney" P1
[Hide Photo] Looking up "First Trapps Chimney" P1

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Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
[Hide Comment] Very committing moves but well protected. Worth climbing if you're already there and can't get on High E. Nov 24, 2011
Simon L
Hartford, CT
  5.4 PG13
[Hide Comment] First pitch is nice, second pitch is easy but not much gear. Brings you to a nice ledge where you have a good view of climber's making "the move" on High E. You can walk over to the High E belay ledge too. Third pitch is messy and not worth doing unless you want to get to the top. Bolted anchors all the way. Nov 12, 2012