Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Terry Lien
Page Views: 3,553 total · 34/month
Shared By: Eric Hirst on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

The beautiful, steep, curving thin crack R of Peanuts to Serve You. Start as for Peanuts, then cut R on easy ground (5.9) to reach a 2 bolt belay. Climb the crack, passing 2 bolts and 1 fixed pin to reach chains.

Includes thin laybacking, pocket pulling, tip-jamming, and knob climbing.

Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet. But I did take a picture today!

Location

Same as Peanuts: It's above the L side of Private Idaho.

Protection

[See also Jon Todorovich's comment below -- his gear beta may be more reliable than this.]

Lots of thin-finger sized gear, at least 4 quickdraws, plus a few hand-sized cams for the approach pitch.

Before the first bolt, it is nice to have a 1/2" stopper to place in the ramp crack ("Jack Robinson"), and just after the first bolt, you can put a hand-sized (red camalot) cam into the only hand pod. There is one more pod, this one thin hands, but then it is all thin - use the smallest TCUs and include several 000 cams.

Photos