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Routes in Lookout Point

A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
A Hatch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
A Ship Called Black Rock T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
An Act of Strange Boar T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
And Say T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baby Tapir T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Below Lissen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bobcat Cringe T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bowling to Biscuits T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
He is Truly a Great Airplane (Hitaga) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
House of the 7th Bobcat T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Law and Order T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanuts To Serve You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Purple Kool-Aid T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rice Krispies T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solitude T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Steel Pulse T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is Index Not L.A. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Velvet Pedestal, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
You can cool Jack Robinson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Terry Lien
Page Views: 2,444 total, 33/month
Shared By: Eric Hirst on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The beautiful, steep, curving thin crack R of Peanuts to Serve You. Start as for Peanuts, then cut R on easy ground (5.9) to reach a 2 bolt belay. Climb the crack, passing 2 bolts and 1 fixed pin to reach chains.

Includes thin laybacking, pocket pulling, tip-jamming, and knob climbing.

Caveat: I haven't climbed it yet. But I did take a picture today!

Location

Same as Peanuts: It's above the L side of Private Idaho.

Protection

Lots of thin-finger sized gear, at least 4 quickdraws, plus a few hand-sized cams for the approach pitch.

Before the first bolt, it is nice to have a 1/2" stopper to place in the ramp crack ("Jack Robinson"), and just after the first bolt, you can put a hand-sized (red camalot) cam into the only hand pod. There is one more pod, this one thin hands, but then it is all thin - use the smallest TCUs and include several 000 cams.
FFA = Terry Lien and he earned it! Jun 12, 2017
Jon Todorovich
  5.12
Jon Todorovich  
  5.12
Gear beta because the description makes it seem like you need more gear than you actually do.
2 bolt anchor start. blue dmm offset nut (tons of different gear would go here as well). Bolt. 1st hand-pod is gold camalot (not red as listed in description), 2nd hand pod is red camlot, blue mastercam, pin, blue mastercam, 2 purple mastercams in a row, bolt, top-out.
On an onsight go you'll probably want a few more pieces plus a set of nuts for some flexibility. but unless you're aiding, you shouldn't need any 00 and certainly no 000 pieces.
The crack above the 2 bolt anchor seems to seep pretty often. It makes the intro boulder problem more difficult, but isn't a deal breaker.
Incredibly splitter and steeper than it looks! The knobs aren't as restful as you hope they're going to be - climb fast! Apr 18, 2017
Jon, yeah I will be back by Christmas hopefully. Its possible I return in January. I will be very motivated when I return. Jul 24, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.12c
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.12c
So, Derek, that would be early spring 2017 (or winter 2016-2017)?

I'm keen on it. Hopefully, my knee will be up for the moves. Jul 23, 2016
Jon, thats right you did get all the moves on "Jackie R" Lets go for the send when I get back. Fa was you. Actually that's right Jon the cleaners/senders do name the projects/routes. Lets talk about the name though ;) lol . Just joking. I want to try this when I return. I hope it will be a dry early season. Jul 22, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.12c
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.12c
TIINLA: Oh man, I thought 11b, and Derek is saying 12b/c. The move up high that is hard might not require a long reach, just flexible hips -- I recall throwing my foot way left.

Derek, you cleaned "Jack R", so you get to name it. The cleaners name things at Index, don't they?

I recall TRing it with you and Jonathan, taking many falls on a really hot day, but getting all the moves. Seemed much harder than the Cringe. Jul 22, 2016
JCM < Yeah its been climbed. Michal Rynkiewicz talked to about getting all the moves now he just needs to go for the send , its difficult to place pro and its very thin. Its a great climb though. I cleaned this route and placed the bolts in 2012. I think its harder then Bobcat Cringe. Jon and I had a name for this but we never sent it so whoever sends gets to name it , it will be a very impressive send.

When one climbs in from Solitude its a little easier. The name of this way is called "This is Index not LA". The first crux at the first bolt is boulder problem my guess is V3. The finish is pretty awesome. I did all the moves on this with Tom and Sunshine and one other friend I forget his name. Tom didn't try it though so I didn't get a good insight as to the rating. For example Sunny climbed Bobcat without any problem and then the steep corner on TIINLA has a big reach move and that gave her a challenge. I'm guessing 12 b/c for TIINLA. When I return I will be going for the send as soon as this is dry in spring 2017. Jul 22, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.12c
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.12c
JCM -

That crack is 'You can cool Jack Robinson'. It hasn't been led, just TRed. Derek posted some pics on the main Lookout Point page.

There is another route that merges with it in which you go up either Purple Kool Aid or Peanuts, then do a 5.10 face move over to Jack R- (at the bolt), and continue up. At least with the direct start into Kool Aid, it is called 'This is Index, Not LA', and is probably 11b. The direct start bolt hasn't been put in yet. Jul 22, 2016
JCM
Seattle, WA
JCM   Seattle, WA
Has the crack below and to the left of Bobcat Cringe been climbed? As of this spring, it looked pretty clean, and there was a new looking bolt somewhere up top between Peanuts and Bobcat. Looks thin and hard. Jul 22, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.12c
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.12c
Stamati -

Bingo on the namesake. Jun 29, 2016
Stamati
Bellingham, WA
 
Stamati   Bellingham, WA
 
This could easily be the best finger crack in Washington. Jul 16, 2015
Phenomenal route!! Oct 4, 2014
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
But that's ignoring the face section on 'Shader', the crux of which likewise makes any single move on Bobcat seem like 5.8! Sep 22, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
  5.12c
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
  5.12c
The crack starts in space and ends in space, and curves like a snake in between. As the rock is dark above, white below, the resulting pattern is a little like the yin-yang symbol.

You can just reach into the bottom of the crack from the neighboring route, and when it ends, you have a few face moves to a ledge. Some have called it the best thin finger crack in WA.

In difficulty, it makes "I am in top a shader" (the stellar 11c finger crack just below on Private Idaho) seem like a 5.8 hand crack. Expect a fight for every jam. Jul 25, 2013
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Can be climbed in one pitch from the ground if the rope is pulled through once the two bolt anchor is reached. In the picture shown, the climb is actually the upper crack that is seen only as a margin between light and dark rock. Gear should emphasize finger size cams but include up to a gold C4. Doubles or triples are useful in the small to medium range. There are a couple of bolts on the climb as well. This has to be one of the best cracks around these parts, continuously overhung and splitter as can be. Jan 13, 2012