Bowling to Biscuits
Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.5 from 10
FA: Jon Nelson and Dave Toler (Dec 1980)
> Central-West Ca…
> Skykomish Valley
> Lookout Point Area
> Lookout Point
October 8-9 LTW limited access.
From the WA Climbers' Coalition:
There will be limited access to the Lower Town Wall on October 8 & 9.
Clearing work for the new vault toilet will begin. The first part of the trail will be widened (within the railroad right-of-way) into a short gravel road, which we need to install and service the toilet.
Some trees deemed hazardous will be removed at the base of the Lower Town Wall, especially around the Great Northern Slab, the Sonic Reducer/Terminal Preppie ledge, and Rogers Corner. A hired arborist determined we have nine “hazard trees” many of which are dead or decaying, which we identified for removal in a Critical Areas Report to the County. To improve future safety at the Lower Town Wall, we want to remove these trees now, before we turn our property over to Washington State Parks.
All other areas at Index will not be affected.
P1: 5.10a. Climb a short crack on a pedestal, about 30' left of Peanuts. At the top of the pedestal, layback up and right to the face holds (takes a good wired stopper or brass nut: #5 BD nut is perfect). The face climbing (~5.8) has two bolts, and ends on a ledge below a hand-crack in a shallow corner. Climb the crack (~10a) and do a few traverse moves left to a two-bolt chained anchor below the roof.
(Completely disregard the info in guidebooks published before 2012: they mistakenly label the dirty corner further left as the 1st pitch. That corner was never part of the route.)
P2: 5.10d. Go over the roof on the right side, grabbing solid flakes and jamming (~10a). Enter the corner (see photo) and follow the corner to a ledge and 3-bolt belay. The crux is the pumpy jams soon after pulling the roof. The crack widens at the top. The top ledge is very comfortable.
Pitch 2 is short but sustained. It also tends to stay clean and dry, even in a light rain.
A double rope (150') reaches the ground. With a single rope, you can rap to the anchor at the top of the first pitch, but it may require a little swinging to be able to grab the chains. From this anchor, a single 60-m rope will reach the ground.
In the Bobcat Cringe area. Starts about 30' left of Peanuts to Serve You.
Bring small nuts and cams to 4".
In 1980, Dave Toler and I went ground up. I led the first pitch, traversing over from Peanuts, then heading through some thick foliage that clogged the best jams, making it much more desperate than it is now. The second pitch was always perfectly clean, though originally there were some vine maples below the roof that I stood on. We called it Bowling for biscuits.
In 2012, Derek Pearson cleaned off the (much better) direct start, and then later he, Nicola Masciandaro, and I repeated the route. Now both pitches are very clean. The vine maples at the start of p2 left on their own (rotted and fallen out), and Nicola probably did the first non-tree-aided ascent of the pitch, giving the route it's present name.
Moving into the fingerlocks after pulling over the roof on Bowling to Biscuits 5.10d.
Starting up the slot on P2 after the opening flake crank.
Jessica leading 1st pitch
Jon giving Bowling a much-needed makeover, November 2011. The bottom of the route was overgrown but should be very clean for the 2012 season.
Looking down the second pitch of Bowling to biscuits, from near the belay anchor.
Looking up the second pitch of Bowling to biscuits (10d). The roof is at the bottom.