Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jon Nelson and Dave Toler (Dec 1980)
Page Views: 2,035 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Access Issue: The Novel Coronavirus & 2020 Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

P1: 5.10a. Climb a short crack on a pedestal, about 30' left of Peanuts. At the top of the pedestal, layback up and right to the face holds (takes a good wired stopper or brass nut: #5 BD nut is perfect). The face climbing (~5.8) has two bolts, and ends on a ledge below a hand-crack in a shallow corner. Climb the crack (~10a) and do a few traverse moves left to a two-bolt chained anchor below the roof.

(Completely disregard the info in guidebooks published before 2012: they mistakenly label the dirty corner further left as the 1st pitch. That corner was never part of the route.)

P2: 5.10d. Go over the roof on the right side, grabbing solid flakes and jamming (~10a). Enter the corner (see photo) and follow the corner to a ledge and 3-bolt belay. The crux is the pumpy jams soon after pulling the roof. The crack widens at the top. The top ledge is very comfortable.

Pitch 2 is short but sustained. It also tends to stay clean and dry, even in a light rain.

A double rope (150') reaches the ground. With a single rope, you can rap to the anchor at the top of the first pitch, but it may require a little swinging to be able to grab the chains. From this anchor, a single 60-m rope will reach the ground.

Location

In the Bobcat Cringe area. Starts about 30' left of Peanuts to Serve You.

Protection

Bring small nuts and cams to 4".

History

In 1980, Dave Toler and I went ground up. I led the first pitch, traversing over from Peanuts, then heading through some thick foliage that clogged the best jams, making it much more desperate than it is now. The second pitch was always perfectly clean, though originally there were some vine maples below the roof that I stood on. We called it Bowling for biscuits.

In 2012, Derek Pearson cleaned off the (much better) direct start, and then later he, Nicola Masciandaro, and I repeated the route. Now both pitches are very clean. The vine maples at the start of p2 left on their own (rotted and fallen out), and Nicola probably did the first non-tree-aided ascent of the pitch, giving the route it's present name.

Photos