Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigolo del Velo."
Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
Routes in Cima della Madonna
|Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigolo del Velo." T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Trad, 1350 ft, 10 pitches|
|FA:||Guenther Langes and Edwin Merlet, 19 July 1920|
|Page Views:||963 total, 13/month|
|Shared By:||Rodger Raubach on Nov 20, 2011|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
DescriptionThe climb attacks the arete directly and soon passes over the famous "organ pipe holds." The climbing is exceptional and continuously steep. After reaching the top of the initial buttress, continue up the crest of the arete to a second buttress top; a long stretch across a gap to the final headwall is required. The climbing is astounding, on rock resembling a big petrified sponge
Descend via the Winkler chimney between the Cima della Madonna and Sass Maor by a marked 2nd and 3rd class scramble over the summit and down to the rappel anchors. All anchors are fixed and cemented in place. There are a series of four abseils of 20 meters each, with some scrambling and traversing between the second, and beginning the third. Additionally, a short travese is necessary to reach the rings for number 4.