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Routes in Oaklands

All Natural S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ball Sports T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Biz NAZ, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Attack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chalk Troll V7 7A+
Choir Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Control Freak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Coxspel, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Crazy Fool S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dish Network S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Lip Dip T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fir Real T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom of the Hills S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joycone S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jug a Low T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Keepin' It Real S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Black Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man for the Job T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mojo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oak Wild S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oaksterdam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Praylord finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quannum S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Red Dream S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride the Snake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riot Act S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Runaway Train S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sporting the Line T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Steep Treats S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stepchild S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sun Shower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up the 9 T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wanker Rail, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
jesus jugs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft, Grade V
FA: Able Jones, John Crawley
Page Views: 931 total, 13/month
Shared By: john crawley on Nov 20, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Simply put. This route is SICK! The Line shares the start of Jug a Low. Instead of continuing straight up bust right into stellar looking overhung crack. Enjoy hand friendly rock, fantastic holds and a whole lot of pump up the steep crack. Keep moving until you reach the final stem when the crack becomes less steep. The final feet of the climb rely on stemming and power to pull the finishing moves topping out the cliff.

Location

in the main amphitheater, shares start with Jug a Low.

Protection

doubles .3-2 and one 3
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
This probably will have one bolt down low soon. For now you can traverse in from the left above the first shelf via 4+ climbing. The direct has been done but is pg-13 as is. Same beta goes for Jug-a-Low for now. We're lucky to have a crack this good in such proximity to Flagstaff. Pretty wild and steep crack climbing. Gets the latest possible sun hitting the top.

Edit: Bolt has been added at the start. It's totally safe now. Thanks John Nov 21, 2011