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Routes in Snext Wall

Donkey Punch S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Electric Sex S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lucky Strike S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Pulling Toobers S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Twisted Shocker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vibrator S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Witchnose Arete S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike McNeil
Page Views: 113 total · 1/month
Shared By: BBQ on Nov 19, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Line up your target as straight as you can, keep your foot pace steady, take a deep breath and release. And just remember, it's all on the wrist.

About seven bolts worth of sequential, yet very powerful climbing starts with a roof pull that lead to a killer overhung section with huge holds-if you can find them-before the pump burns you out. What comes next is a section where you think your ball is rolling left...and then right again...in order to gain a crux hold at the anchors, with slopers the rest of the way.

Great Climb! Not easy! Go warm up on Lost Ninja if you are concerned about your form and finesse before you try this tough, canyon classic. This pumpy route requires a working man's stamina and the grace of a yoga master. The tricky sequences and small, smeary foot holds will have you toeing the line wondering if you are going to be able to knock down every pin or end up in the gutter.

Onsightable, definately...but only for the lucky few. If you are a fan of the 5.10's on The Big Black Face this climb is a worthy alternative to standing in line and waiting. Get on it!

Location

To the right and up the steep hill from Electric Sex...the belay is cool, but the hang is not kid friendly.

Protection

7 bolts. Closed shut anchors.

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