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Routes in The North Gym

"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Retard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Prostitutes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Neil Canon, Bob Robertson, Rich Aschert
Page Views: 587 total · 7/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 18, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Edit]

According to legend, this was the first route at The North Gym, and this section of the cliffline is named for this route. Established ground-up in October 1985, this was also one of the very first routes at Shelf Road.

This steep slab begins with some intriguing, off-balance liebacking but ends in a brutal slab crux with tiny slopey holds. Not sold yet? This line sports a piton and a 1/4" Star-Drive as well, though both are backed up by 3/8" angle-iron bolts that are only 25-or-so years old. Despite the old-school nature of the climb, the rock is excellent, and the first half is enjoyable and novel.

Lieback & fingerlock up the offset seam. When the seam peters out, make some difficult moves to the horizontal break and a great rest. After a body length of trivial moves, weave desperately between uninspiring edges that all seem to face the wrong way. After the high horizontal break, a few big jugs lead to the top.

Location [Edit]

This is 10' right of "Black Crack".

Protection [Edit]

8 bolts with red, angle-iron hangers, an old piton, a Star Drive, to a 2 bolt ring anchor.

Photos

Jesse Jakomait
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Jesse Jakomait   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Sustained technical climbing on great rock with lots of good sidepulls and balancy movement. Apr 2, 2016

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