Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Neil Canon, Bob Robertson, Rich Aschert
Page Views: 917 total · 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 18, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description

According to legend, this was the first route at The North Gym, and this section of the cliffline is named for this route. Established ground-up in October 1985, this was also one of the very first routes at Shelf Road.

This steep slab begins with some intriguing, off-balance liebacking but ends in a brutal slab crux with tiny slopey holds. Not sold yet? This line sports a piton and a 1/4" Star-Drive as well, though both are backed up by 3/8" angle-iron bolts that are only 25-or-so years old. Despite the old-school nature of the climb, the rock is excellent, and the first half is enjoyable and novel.

Lieback & fingerlock up the offset seam. When the seam peters out, make some difficult moves to the horizontal break and a great rest. After a body length of trivial moves, weave desperately between uninspiring edges that all seem to face the wrong way. After the high horizontal break, a few big jugs lead to the top.

Location

This is 10' right of "Black Crack".

Protection

8 bolts with red, angle-iron hangers, an old piton, a Star Drive, to a 2 bolt ring anchor.

Photos