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Routes in Goldirocks

Blind People Have the Hummin' Jones T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Fuse T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Stress Fracture T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
WPW T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 476 total, 6/month
Shared By: Handsome B. Wonderful on Nov 18, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details


This route is very appealing when viewed from below. The crux is the 5' roof about 5' up. The roof actually downturns at the lip which makes it extra cool. It appears as though it would take an offwidth master to pull it off, but a closer look reveals the bomber hand crack guarded by an offwidth. Above the roof looms an offwidth that is very difficult to see. The Upper OW is not bad. I will leave it at that. I did not want to haul up big pieces, so I didn't bring anything for it and was never uncomfortable. If you pull the crux, the route should be in the bag. However, if OWs are not your bag, you may want to bring a big piece. This route is very enjoyable and, if you are somewhat tall, it is on the soft side of .12a. .11+ felt pretty on.


This is a tricky bugger to find. As you are walking along the Lower Blair trail toward Behind Blue Eyes, keep your eyes peeled for Short Fuse on the left. Go about 50' to the right and bushwhack to the base of the cliff. You will not see it until you are right under it. The route is obvious when under it.


The crux protects with BOMBPROOF #2 Camalots.


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