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Routes in Cave Buttress

Cro-Magnons From Space T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Main Vein, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pleasure Pillar, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rowan's Arete S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Unaweeper, The S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Unknown 1 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unknown 2 S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown 3/ Unknown 3 Variation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jesse Zacher
Page Views: 139 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Nov 18, 2011
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This climb follows a long, vertical vein of quartz for two long pitches. You end up on top of Rowan's Arete.

Pitch 1: (5.11) Leave everything bigger than a #0.75 with your partner, but bring a #4. Start on some blocky terrain and place a few pieces until you reach the first bolt which is about 30 feet up. From here, used mixed gear and bolts to get to the base of the 4' roof. The next 20 feet is the meat of the route, and how you do it will be height dependent. Move over the roof on the left hand side, traverse a few moves right with the vein clipping two more bolts until the grade eases up and you get to a nice bolted belay on a ledge. (120')

Pitch 2: (5.10+) Traverse slightly right and up aiming towards the bolts. Clip several bolts up fun climbing on great rock. This pitch is long, so bring lots of slings! Continue through some mixed terrain and slowly angle right to where there is one last bolt and an obvious hand crack begins to angle on the left. Follow the hand crack to a bolted anchor on-top of the ledge.(160')

If you still have juice, lower and take a lap on Rowan's Arete!


Location

This is the first established route you come upon when hiking to Cave Buttress. It is just climber's right of the new Guide's Route Belay line. The line begins approximately 100 yards climber's right of Lords of Wisdom. Look for the vein of rock and the roof with some bolts.

Protection

Nuts, #0 C3 was helpful at times. Doubles from Camalots #0.3-#0.5. Depending how comfortable you are on hand cracks, you could bring a double set of #1-3 Camalots. A single set from #0.75-#4 seemed fine. The #4 can be used both on pitch 1 and 2 but is not necessary.

Photos

Great climb, long and well worth the journey. It finishes just to the left of Rowan's Arete and The Unaweeper. Thoughtful climbing and super fun! Nov 30, 2011
Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
This route has tons of good movement over generally good rock. With a few more ascents, the small flakes that are here and there will come off and it will be in great shape! Nov 18, 2011