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Routes in Mont de l'Equerre

La Pomme d'or WI5-
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Type: Ice, Alpine, 1200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade V
FA: Kurt Winkler, Jim Tierney, march 1980
Page Views: 4,790 total · 57/month
Shared By: M Hosmer on Nov 18, 2011
Admins: Luc-514

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Description

I do not know how this climb has managed to stay off of MP for so long. I was shocked to not find it here. La Pomme D'or is THE classic long ice route in La Malbaie, Quebec. Many hardmen have cut their teeth on this beautiful climb. From multi day adventures to day long solos, this climb gets traffic and deserving so. This climb is a classic in every sense of the word.

The route can range from 4+ to 5+ depending on your line of attack. The opening pitches are in the easy 4 range until about 1/3 the way up. They things get steeper. On the upper 1/3 you can choose to move either right or left and select from vertical pillars to lower angle ice In my experience the far left was easiest with the right being harder.

Location

Around 31 km on the road from the first park gate.

As of winter 2010-2011, you could drive past the outer gates and into the park itself on minimally maintained road to the inner gate. This shortens the approach significantly. In the past you could hire a snowmobile to shuttle you the rest of the way. This is currently illegal but still practised by some. For the human powered approach begin a 8 mile or so gently rolling ski approach along the un-plowed road. Pass a damn and then you can begin skiing on the river itself. You will pass many climbs in route but La Pomme will be noticeable off in the distance on your left.

On the river below the climb you can look up to scout your approach up the talus, and snowfield. There are alternative starts but the main route goes up a tight corner at the top of couloir that cannot really be seen from below.

Many parties camp below the route upstream a short ways in the woods. Also across the river on the road side there is a small designated camping site with a picnic table as well.

Protection

The route goes with screws alone. Bring enough to build all your anchors off of screws as well as protect each pitch. Later in the season you will usually find a nice line of V-threads leading the way down. Trust them at your own risk!
Matt D
Jay, NY
Matt D   Jay, NY
info about New rules to access La Pomme d'Or:

neice.com/e-guide/new-rules… Jan 11, 2016
Bob Otten
Windham, NY
Bob Otten   Windham, NY
I rather surprised that this post is still up. I plan on doing this route this winter and have a number of friends that have. As a seasoned ice climber that has climbed ALLOT of steep ice I know, based on the reports of credible climbers as well as knowing what I’m looking at, that this is no 4+/5- ice climb. It’s also NOT 6 pitches in length. This is how folks can get hurt. Be careful out there and be skeptical of what you read on routes. Sep 1, 2018
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
 
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
 
Bob, depending on the season and the line taken, it can be as easy as WI4+ and can also turn into a WI6+. I adjusted the total length and there are at least 6 pitches as confirmed by a couple friends who have climbed it.
Lets not forget the grade V which shows how remote and serious this route is. Sep 4, 2018
Bob Otten
Windham, NY
Bob Otten   Windham, NY
Luc. I’m sorry, I thought based on our conversations you were going to be adjusting this route description to better reflect its totality. Get in touch with Kurt Winkler, the first acentionist and see what he has to say on the matter. The original line follows the headwall finish and is 5+ at its easiest. We don’t have the right to change the line in order to down grade the route. A fair analogy would be to combine The Last Gentleman and The Promenade at Lake Willoughby. One could argue that on the right day under the right conditions you could pic your way up the Gentleman and Do nothing harder than 4+|5- climbing. On the Promenade, likewise, under the right conditions you might pick your way up it on no more that grade 5 conditions but to combine these two routes and claim a rating of 4+ is not only negating the fact that they are distinctly separate lines, but also that ice is infinitely variable and always changing. I’ve soloed 5+ ice on a warm sunny late winter day and it felt very casual and have been on 4+ pillars in grim conditions where it was truly a white knuckle experience. Food for thought. Let an established grade stand until there is AMPLE consensus to change it and then allow it to happen in a published forum like a guidebook where there has been ample peer review. Sep 7, 2018

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