PRINT: Rock Climb Quartzite Ridge South Side, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Quartzite Ridge South Side

Easy 5th, Trad, 1000 ft (303 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 41 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Supremacy Rock

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

The Quartzite Ridge is an exposed rock ridge that runs appromimately East to West from above the summit of Supremacy Rock for 250m to its intersection with the Rattlesnake Trail. Almost all of the climbing along the ridge is on its sunny south aspect.

After a 100m of scrambling to attain the ridge, ascend the arete in a series of moderate steps and downclimbs, passing several trees en route.

A variety of options exist at each tower along the way, but staying on the arete offers the best climbing on beautiful quartzite, reminiscent of the alpine rock in the Tetons.

A short downclimb at the end of the ridge brings you to the Rattlesnake Trail. For a solo climber, a 60 minute round trip car-to-car is average.

The Quartzite Ridge receives excellent winter sun angle at midday and is the best location in Boulder to practice short-roping.

Location

The Quartzite Ridge is located just to the north of the Rattlesnake Trail parking area. Park in one of the two spaces just north of the small creek, and walk west 50 meters to a large tree and the start.

Descend the Rattlesnake Trail back to the parking lot.

Protection

There is no fixed gear, but ample natural protection exists. Most parties would need only a few long slings for protection.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Malcolm is now enthusiatic about his climb on the Quartzite Ridge.

The scramble.

Jagged line of Quartzite Ridge, Nov. 6, 2022.

Looking back to the start near the middle of the ridge.

The alternate P1 start, loose, 5.4 R chossaneering. Light rack to #3 Camalot could be helpful.

P2 where Deb recommends the 1st one up gets the camera.

Deb emerges into the sun and onto solid rock from the North Face ramp alternate start (loose 5.4 R).

Malcolm on the approach slabs to the Quartzite Ridge, warming up to the idea.

Deb near the top, on the last gendarme. It was ~1100' to the top.

Deb on P5.

Deb ascends a small gendarme on P4.

Malcolm isn't sure about the Quartzite Ridge.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Malcolm Daly
Hailey, ID

I can't believe this thing has been under my nose for 35 years and I haven't seen it. Hidden gem? Nov 18, 2011

Malcolm Daly
Hailey, ID

BTW, this route is either a solo or a short-rope practice climb. 98% of it is 3rd-4th class, but there are a couple of "stopper" moves in the 5.4 range with no fall consequences. There are plenty of places, however, where a trip or stumble on the easiest ground would result in a 150' groundfall. If you're comfortable soloing the 3rd Flatty, this one's for you. And it has no down-climb at the end. Nov 18, 2011

Dan D
Boulder, CO

5.0

This can be anywhere from 3rd to 5th Class depending on your route. I did find that there were a few moments where you had to make some technical moves. Apr 2, 2023

Cosima Fernweh
Estes Park, CO

4th

Finally did this one today--went quick but was super fun! Plenty of options, and I did find myself doing a lot of up/down maneuvering to avoid possible poor rock, but overall it was solid and quite fun. Will definitely do a repeat. Oct 5, 2023