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Routes in Oaklands

All Natural S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ball Sports T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Biz NAZ, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Attack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chalk Troll V7 7A+
Choir Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Control Freak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Coxspel, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Crazy Fool S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dish Network S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Lip Dip T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fir Real T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom of the Hills S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joycone S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jug a Low T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Keepin' It Real S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Black Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man for the Job T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mojo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oak Wild S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oaksterdam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Praylord finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quannum S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Red Dream S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride the Snake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riot Act S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Runaway Train S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sporting the Line T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Steep Treats S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stepchild S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sun Shower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up the 9 T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wanker Rail, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
jesus jugs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 65 ft
FA: Cox, Bloom
Page Views: 279 total · 4/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Nov 16, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Man for the Job shares the Wanker Rail start, with a 5.10 move before the first bolt. *****If you can't figure out how to get on the Wanker Rail before bailing to the ledge, then Man For the Job allows you to still make it to the top and to an anchor so you can get your draws down. And that's about it.***** After the third bolt, climb up to the good stance and follow the arete for a few moves. Gain a ledge and do a little boulder problem - the crux - to another ledge. Plug in a small cam or two and finish on steep, juggy crack features. This route is a hodgepodge of features separated by slabby ledges that really needed a clean, straight, uncomplicated rope line to connect them and balance out the chaotic nature of the line. Geek out!

Location

Shares start with Wanker Rail, just left of Stepchild.

Protection

6 bolts and a .4 and/or .5 camalot for the ending. The last bolt is reachy to clip, but would be useless if placed lower. Really short folks may want to have a pre-hung draw for their ascent, or bring a stiff quick draw with a loose gate.

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