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Resin Rose
5.11d,
Trad, 55 ft (17 m),
Avg: 2 from 5
votes
FA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith - April, 1987
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> (04) Second Pul…
> Wall of Confusion
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
I almost want to give this 3 stars, but since the route is pretty dirty and most people aren't really into this sort of thing, I'm not sure I can in good conscience. If you do like wide crack/chimney problems, Resin Rose should be on your Red Rocks tick list.
Begin in the alcove a short scramble up and right from Fear and Loathing and climb the obvious crack. Fairly easy climbing through guano leads up into the bowels of this beast where a fixed wire and sling provide crux pro. From here, all but the smallest of 12 year old OW aficionados will have to climb down and outwards across the bottomless maw before once again worming upwards to a thank god jug/handjam and gear. The fall from the crux is spectacular, scary, but seemingly quite safe. Continue more easily up the steep crack to more bird crap and an annoying anchor shared with the sport climb on the right. Beware of sharp edges if you choose to lower (it might be better to rap).
Protection
Ignore the recommendations of 5" and 8" pieces. A double set to #2 Camalot is perfect. Anything bigger will undoubtedly get in your way. Long pants and some handi wipes would not go unappreciated.
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