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Routes in Wall of Confusion

American Sportsman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Damage S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calanque, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Desert Pickle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fear and Loathing, III S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Makulu S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Promises in the Dark S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Resin Rose T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Runaway, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Sudden Impact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Super Guide S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: Paul Crawford & Jay Smith - April, 1987
Page Views: 869 total, 12/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Nov 15, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

I almost want to give this 3 stars, but since the route is pretty dirty and most people aren't really into this sort of thing, I'm not sure I can in good conscience. If you do like wide crack/chimney problems, Resin Rose should be on your Red Rocks tick list.

Begin in the alcove a short scramble up and right from Fear and Loathing and climb the obvious crack. Fairly easy climbing through guano leads up into the bowels of this beast where a fixed wire and sling provide crux pro. From here, all but the smallest of 12 year old OW aficionados will have to climb down and outwards across the bottomless maw before once again worming upwards to a thank god jug/handjam and gear. The fall from the crux is spectacular, scary, but seemingly quite safe. Continue more easily up the steep crack to more bird crap and an annoying anchor shared with the sport climb on the right. Beware of sharp edges if you choose to lower (it might be better to rap).

Protection

Ignore the recommendations of 5" and 8" pieces. A double set to #2 Camalot is perfect. Anything bigger will undoubtedly get in your way. Long pants and some handi wipes would not go unappreciated.

Photos

Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
This route is actually pretty sweet even with all the petrified bird shit. Not a classic, but a damn fun OW section with pretty engaging climbing throughout. I brought big gear, placed it, and would do the same again. Feb 26, 2013
rockratrei
Las Vegas, NV
rockratrei   Las Vegas, NV
Had a pair. Nov 22, 2011
Too young, man. Nice writeup, Josh. Almost makes me want to buy a jumbo bottle of hand sanitizer and get on it. Almost :) Nov 18, 2011
And a pair of those shoes.


Raise your hand if you remember these! Nov 17, 2011