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Routes in H. The Booze Pig Wall

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Flagstaff Oldschool
Page Views: 611 total, 8/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Nov 15, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

I did hear, a while back that this line had been done around the V10 mark, but not 100% sure who did it. To the right of Booze Pig, and the to the left of On Liquor I Spent My Last Dime, is a very thin line of positive crimps to a perfect 3" round pocket. The pocket turns out to be just another crimp.

A recent send may confirm the grade.

Location

Just right of Booze Pig

Protection

Pads, spotters

Photos

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JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Nice send Greco! Apr 3, 2013
dlsask
Flagstaff, AZ
dlsask   Flagstaff, AZ
This one is cryptic and tough to read, but as far as I can tell you start on a right hand 2 finger pocket, and a positive left hand crimp (which some folks might use as a right hand for Booze Pig). From these start holds there's a substantial distance to what appear to be positive crimps which look like they set you up to gain the 3" pocket mentioned in the description. The crux involves spanning the gap between the start holds and the positive crimps, with your best options involving several sloping, or flat crimps. Seems like it will require a combination of stout crimping, subtle footwork, and yogic hip flexibility (think geeked out granite). Aug 7, 2012