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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Brazier Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Chili Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faith Healer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foot Massage, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gomez T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leap Erickson T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leap Year Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leap of Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Before You Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morticia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pat Adams Dihedral T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pugsley S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snake Oil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabby Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tofutti T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Waltz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wednesday's Child T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 624 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Scherneck on Nov 13, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begins in a gully behind a tree, up and over a boulder, and in to a wide crack. Get established in the right facing wide crack. Offwidth technique (or fists if you have larger hands) will be a benifit here. Awkward, and in my opinion, harder than the Vogel book's rating.

Location

Above and right of the finish for Leap Year Flake. Look for the right slanting wide crack.

Protection

Thin cams and a couple larger (BD #4 or #5) to protect the wide.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
  5.7+
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
  5.7+
Yes, I agree. This route is definitely more difficult than 5.6! If someone told me that the move off the stance near the middle was 5.8 I'd nod my head in agreement. As it is I'll say 7+ in keeping with Larry. Either way it's an enjoyable route and there is easy access to the bolt anchors at the top of Double Delight. Mar 19, 2017
C Miller
CA
  5.6
C Miller   CA  
  5.6
Good catch Larry! Mar 16, 2017
Larry
SoAZ
5.7+
Larry   SoAZ
5.7+
There are multiple confusions here.

Chili Dog starts on the tier above the end of Leap Year Flake. The route described here ends at that tier. It can in fact be top-roped from the double-ring ASCA rappel bolts.

The right-leaning shallow offwidth described here is WAY harder than 5.6. It is two grades harder than 5.8 in my opinion. (Although I did not lead it, because it seems very hard to lead as an offwidth due to the potential for kicking your gear.) It does indeed have lower-quality rock in the thinner sections in the back.

The true Chili Dog is also harder than 5.6, IMHO. 5.7+ I called it. It starts with stemming between the left wall of the corner and the left side of the same flake that Brazier Food climbs on the right.

The four easier upper-tier routes are listed out of order. The correct order from left to right is Tofutti (which goes through the summit block), Double Delight (double cracks ending at bolts), Chili Dog and Brazier Food (which both end at the same bolts as Double Delight).

EDIT: I think I know how to account for the difference in how hard Nathan Scherneck thought the leaning OW was, and how hard I thought it was. A pretty large knob just right of the crack appears to have broken off, judging by the orange/black scar. Mar 15, 2017
Sean Milburn
Los Angeles, CA
Sean Milburn   Los Angeles, CA
Is route the Dihedral with a crack in the corner above the rap anchors? If so I would agree its not 5.6. Nov 3, 2016
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
 
I added this with the rating in the Vogel guide. I'd say it's awkward 5.8. For me at least. The biggest piece I had was one #4. Would have felt better with a #5, maybe two (rather than pro-ing in the crappy deteriorating crack inside the wide). Nov 14, 2011