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Robbins' Route
5.10,
Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 1.8 from 4
votes
FA: Royal Robbins and Ted Wilson
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Thumb Area
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A very old route on the east side of the Thumb.
Mark Ward made an early solo (roped) ascent. Probably '71 or '72. Took a leader fall on the 4th pitch and sliced his leg. Finished the route and then went to get stitched up.
Some fixed pins. A little dirty but very historic and one of the original hard routes in the canyon
Location
Start uphill from Spring and Fall. A direct line up a slanting chimney heading for a apex shaped roof.
Protection
Standard
![Kim Miller placing pins on the first pitch of the Robbins' Route.]()
[Hide Photo] Kim Miller placing pins on the first pitch of the Robbins' Route.
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Salt Lake City, UT