Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: John McLean
Page Views: 219 total · 3/month
Shared By: Joe M. on Nov 9, 2011
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

You & This Route

5 Opinions

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Start standing left of the Neil's Nuts prow. With hands in obvious pocket, move right to small holds in thin right-leaning seam and traverse right around arete until you reach a good edge. Mantel and climb to top to finish.




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Elias M  
Climbed a variation of this problem that finishes straight up instead of around the arete. Not sure if something broke on the original line but I couldn't figure out how to continue around the arete. Felt about the same grade. I made a video of what I climbed so others can try it.

youtube.com/watch?v=zx6XH-x… May 10, 2016
Providence, RI
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
Hey Elias, this looks really neat. The last time I was at the boulder (a couple of months ago) all of the holds I saw were intact. The move around the arete is pretty thrashy and super rough on the finger tips, this variation looks a lot nicer to be honest! May 16, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
Have to agree with the comments above. The variation in the video is a lot more fun than the original line. I'm not sure why you would even choose to do this line the way it was originally done, given that it is sharp, thrutchy and not at all a natural/obvious line? Perhaps that's what they were going for. :) Anyhow, the variation mentioned above is pretty good and felt v8 to me. Apr 28, 2018
Graham O.
Graham O.  
Alternatively, one can dyno straight up to the lip from the starting holds for an easier, but much more fun variation. Sep 23, 2018