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Routes in The Damocles Boulders

Plague, The V9 7C
Sword, The V8 7B
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: W. Anglin
Page Views: 103 total, 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Nov 8, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a classic problem on a slightly overhanging face.

Sit-start with left hand in an undercling pocket, right hand on a small crimp pocket. Do a long powerful cross move to a bad, sloping crimp. Move your left hand to a very small/very sharp crimp. Next is a good right hand sloper followed by a decent crimp rail. From the rail, move to a tiny incut crimp and move to the top. It has an easy top-out.

Location

This is on the boulder that faces away from the road.

Protection

Pads.

Photos

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Christian,

Some twat, who shall remain nameless, chipped that left line after I left Gunnison. It was previously a project, but now that it is chipped I don't care to touch it. Apr 30, 2017
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9
Really good line on really good rock. The first two moves are definitely the crux, but it stays reasonably sustained after those moves (I managed to fall 3 times post crux!). Not quite as good as its neighbor, in my opinion, but still really good!

Not sure what the story is with the completely manufactured line/holds on the left side of the boulder - three drilled handholds and one drilled foothold.... Apr 16, 2017