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Routes in Amateur Route Area

Amateur, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Delusions of Grunger (Link Up) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dicken Around S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dodo Bird S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Push It S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fruit Loops S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grunge Fest S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Hot For Teacher S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Wish my Girlfriend was this Dirty S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Luc Skywalker S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
My Fuzzy Balls S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New Tatoo S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nocturnal Emissions S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pagan on Sunday S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pee Green S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sara's crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Say No To Bush S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Smarty Pants S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spread Your Eagle S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
This Ain't My First Rodeo S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wet Dreams S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeremy Jennings
Page Views: 2,124 total, 29/month
Shared By: Brent Walker on Nov 8, 2011
Admins: TylerKC, Kyle Christopher

You & This Route


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Description

Awesome 5.11 climbing up to the roof, pull a big dynamic move beginning the top crux. Continue into the roof, and make a desperate clip from a terrible hold. Moves continually get harder until you clip off the finishing jug.

Location

In between Wet Dreams and Grunge Fest. Look for the orange/black hanging draws.

Protection

6 Hanging Draws + 2 Cold-Shut Anchors

Photos

Sam Elander
  5.12a/b
Sam Elander  
  5.12a/b
I agree, the hardest part is gaining the anchor-clipping holds.
Also, those anchor clips, are tiny as crap. Makes clipping a bit weird. Apr 17, 2017
Yeah, I don't think of this as an 11d at all. If Wet Dreams is a 12a, Delusions feels a little harder, so 12b. But the crux for me is gaining the anchor-clipping holds, and someone with even more reach than me could clip without having to do a couple difficult finishing moves (I know someone who does this), which might bump it back down to 12a/11d for him. Apr 6, 2016
Luc Ried
Batesville, AR
  5.12b
Luc Ried   Batesville, AR
  5.12b
The new guidebook shows this as 5.11d... How was that determined? Jun 21, 2015
Jeremy Jennings
  5.12b
Jeremy Jennings  
  5.12b
It's more like 45 feet Nov 17, 2013