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Routes in The North Gym

"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Alpha Chino's Chinos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Apogee Pending S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Flamingo Lane S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Full Retard S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Here We Go Again... Again. S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lead Farmer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Logan's Run S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Long Black Veil S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Observe God's Mistake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Orange S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pimp's Main Prophet S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Power Milk & Bagels S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Power Thirteen S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rum-Tum-Tuggernaughts S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Satan's Alley S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spitting Image S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Squeeze S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Teenage Prostitutes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
That's What She Said S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Treble Huck S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Unknown 1 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown 3 S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 20 ft
FA: Mark Anderson, 6 Nov. 11
Page Views: 883 total, 12/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Nearly the entire cliffline from The Gym to The North End hosts a thin layer of cap rock that resembles the Dolomite of Wild Iris, with sweeping bulges and minimal features. Perhaps this layer of stone holds the future of hard climbing at Shelf Road, though currently only a handful of routes venture so high. This is the latest such addition, climbing the impressive body-length bulge directly above Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo.

The route boils down to a dynamic and core-intensive boulder problem to clear the bulge. After a short, trivial slab section, big jugs lead out the roof. Several dynos, fancy footwork and some 2-finger pockets lead to an easy top out.

Location

Climb the big roof & bulge directly above Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo.

Protection

2 bolts, no anchor. After topping out, downclimb to the last bolt & lower back to Earth Mama's... anchor. The last bolt has fixed lowering hardware.

Note: A 50m rope is NOT long enough to lower to the ground from the top of this route.

Photos

Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
This a super cool route that is very reminiscent of Wild Iris, and thus, very unique for Shelf. Perfect for boulderers. Dec 8, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I'm not offended in the least. "You don't buy that? Ask Sean Penn, 2001." Nov 18, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
Obviously, you're not a golfer.

I think if you understand the context, the name is not offensive. If you do understand the context and you're still offended, then I apologize for offending you, but I recommend that in the future, you avoid the internet. Nov 7, 2011
Wow, what a total crap route name. Nov 7, 2011
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
I realized during the FA that the current anchor situation is lame. Next time I'm out there with a drill I plan to install a proper anchor. Nov 7, 2011