Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in Prellstein
|Laufer Weg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Normalweg T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|Type:||Sport, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||134 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Shawn Heath on Nov 7, 2011|
DescriptionTricky tricky! This vertical crack climb is quite an interesting route. It'll have you thinking a lot and is worth a go because there are some really cool moves on it. All in all though, because it's so tricky, I wouldn't rate is as being a great route. The difficulty is consistent until the 4th bolt. Above that it significantly eases up. For a blow-by-blow, keep reading, otherwise figure it out for yourself.
Clip stick the first bolt (skip the worthless piton). The start is difficult and very thin, though your feet are actually probably the best you get until the walk to the anchor.
Start slightly left of the first bolt using the steps and crimps. There is a "slimpy" diagonal side pull you can place your left hand on, or just skip it and reach up right to the two finger gaston/thumb pocket (whichever you prefer). Stand up and get the nice pinch to the left of the pocket. Place your hand in the crack and get your feet on some crap holds (smearing is possible here). Either get your left hand on the good hold or keep it on the pinch while you work your right hand on top of the little bulge forming the crack that your right hand was in. Once you get this good crimp, bring your feet up and reach out left to get a great gaston. Get your foot up a little and grab a crimp in the crack right below the second bolt. Clip in and reach out left to a good hold and use the crack to stand up and get your right hand up in the crack next to the third bolt. You can clip here, then get your left hand on another crimp just above your right hand. Swing out right to get a good hold with your right hand, and balance up to reach a good crimp with your left hand, left of the crack. Get your right foot up on a very small nub (easily not seen), pop your right hand up to the next hold directly above where it just was, put your left toe in a divet about 2ft. above your right foot and stand up to reach the top of the little bulge. Grab a jug and clip the last bolt. Work your way up and left from here to the anchor. The hands and feet are great, and you can keep all of your weight on your feet, so you shouldn't have to worry about falling between here and the anchor.