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Routes in Sandworm Rock

Master & Servant T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sandworm T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Unknown (Sandworm Rock) T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: Scott Cole and Bruce Morris, 1980's
Page Views: 389 total, 5/month
Shared By: caughtinside on Nov 6, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Let's play... Master and Servant.

This is an .11d handcrack! In the center of Sandworm rock, look for the crack splitting the steep bulge, widening to OW size while mercifully keeping good hands in the back.

Steep and powerful pulling leads through the wide section before the angle eases. Reach the top on shallow flaring jams stepping right through three vertical slashes.

This could be an amazing climb but for the abysmal rock quality. The large sharp razor grains are bad enough... and then they move. The grit is showering off the inside of the crack as you jam on it. Jamming on the moving razors is a big threat to your skin. Heavy taping advised lest you risk having to take double digit rest days for skin regeneration.

It's a shame, this could clean into a huge classic, but I fear the rock is just too lousy and it will always be unpleasant.

Location

Sandworm Rock, center. Look for the steep handcrack out the bulge.

Protection

Tape and a toprope. (two bolts on top)

It's possible to lead this route with 2-4" cams, but it's an easy toprope and the rock quality is a big deterrent to the lead. The 2000 ed of the Vogel guide lists it as a TR, so it's perhaps never been led?

Use of old and/or fat rope advised. The top rounds off and falls will give your rope a big grind over very rough rock.

Photos

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dickcilley  
 
The other crack will be really hard. May 19, 2015
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
It rivals The Big Todd in radness. Did you try the other crack? May 15, 2015
dickcilley  
 
Did this one yesterday.Thought it was great . 4 stars May 15, 2015
C Miller   CA  
The description in the Bartlett guide (Rock Climbs of Central Joshua Tree) reads "This is the second crack right of Sandworm, overhanging 1-1/4" leading into a flare." May 12, 2015
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
So there is sorta 3 routes on that face... the dike, a thin to hands grainy crack, and then a hands to fist grainy crack. Which one is Master and Servant? I'm thinking it is the middle of the three routes. What say you?? May 12, 2015
dickcilley  
 
Whats with the crack on the right? May 5, 2015
scole
Joshua tree
scole   Joshua tree
I lead this route on the first ascent with Bruce Morris back in the 80's May 10, 2013