Master & Servant
Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft|
|FA:||Scott Cole and Bruce Morris, 1980's|
|Page Views:||389 total, 5/month|
|Shared By:||caughtinside on Nov 6, 2011|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionLet's play... Master and Servant.
This is an .11d handcrack! In the center of Sandworm rock, look for the crack splitting the steep bulge, widening to OW size while mercifully keeping good hands in the back.
Steep and powerful pulling leads through the wide section before the angle eases. Reach the top on shallow flaring jams stepping right through three vertical slashes.
This could be an amazing climb but for the abysmal rock quality. The large sharp razor grains are bad enough... and then they move. The grit is showering off the inside of the crack as you jam on it. Jamming on the moving razors is a big threat to your skin. Heavy taping advised lest you risk having to take double digit rest days for skin regeneration.
It's a shame, this could clean into a huge classic, but I fear the rock is just too lousy and it will always be unpleasant.
ProtectionTape and a toprope. (two bolts on top)
It's possible to lead this route with 2-4" cams, but it's an easy toprope and the rock quality is a big deterrent to the lead. The 2000 ed of the Vogel guide lists it as a TR, so it's perhaps never been led?
Use of old and/or fat rope advised. The top rounds off and falls will give your rope a big grind over very rough rock.
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