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Routes in Zen Wall

Atman S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Avoiding Mordor S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chop Wood Carry Wood S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day Out with the Lads S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Diamonds of Uranus, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Emptiness, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Forgive Yourself S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gateless Gate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Holy Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
In the Moment S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Karmic Justice S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moral Cannibalism S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Numinous Qualities S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
ObZen T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One Hand Clapping S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plumber's Crack T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pure Mind S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Running to a Standstill S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sacred Cow T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Samsara T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Scattered Marbles S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sentient Beings S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stinger at the Tail S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Yield and Overcome S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: T. Goss, G. Larson
Page Views: 1,008 total, 14/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Nov 6, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

If you enjoy 5.10 gear lines, this is the route for you. Samsara climbs a steep crack which grows from fingers, thin hands, hands, fists, and finally off-fists. The starting hand crack is protected by a couple bolts, which leads to the crux off-fingers crack in the overhanging wall. The final crux is in the fist sized finish to the anchors. A few key face holds keeps this at the 5.10 level. (barely)

A must do trad line!!!

Location

Climbs the obvious crack to the left of Now and Zen

Protection

1x 0.4-4 C4, 2x 0.75, 4x #2, extra #4fr or #4C4
Tape!

Photos

Josh Logan
Draper, UT
Josh Logan   Draper, UT
Did this climb yesterday...kicked my ass. The guide book labels it as a 5.10c, I strongly disagree. If you listen to the book, you may find yourself in trouble, it recommends small to medium pro, I wish I would have had 2 X #4s (for the top third of the route), and 2 to 3 X #3. I used all 3 of my #2s that I took up. the rest can be protected with #.5-#.75. The lower bolted portion of the climb can be protected with a #2 if you're not wanting to use any bolts.

Careful on the first perch, a lot of loose rock up to basketball size. The first move into the crack was super physical for me, pulling the quazi roof. Once you get your feet onto the face, its still a super physical route with few places for fists or fingers.

I walked away bloodied and happy. Enjoy. Dec 25, 2014
Daniel Winder
  5.10+
Daniel Winder  
  5.10+
If you are clipping the bolts on the lower crack you will only need one #2. The extra #4 was nice. Dec 24, 2013