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Routes in Clogwyn y Grochan

Brant Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectre T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Peter Harding, 1947
Page Views: 169 total · 2/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Nov 4, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

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Description [Edit]

Varied climbing with a classic crack on pitch 3.

P1 65' 5.8: From the lowest point of the buttress climb a crack, then a wall using a thin crack; carry on up, trending right to a tree belay beneath a groove.

P2 100' 5.9: Climb the groove (hard), crossing left at the top (thin) beneath a small overhang. Up a short groove then follow slabs rightwards to belay beneath a steep crack in the left wall.

P3 35' 5.9: "The crack is entered by a suitable method. Layback for the bold, mantleshelf for the gymnast or belly-roll and leg-kicking for the masses. Once entered, the trap is sprung, for retreat is virtually impossible and the exit is extremely hard. Hand-jamming and foot-scraping seem the usual techniques required" (Ron James, 1970).

P4 100' 5.7: Traverse on to the left wall and climb this steeply. Abseil (50 m) from spikes or continue to the top.

Location [Edit]

Spectre is on Goat's Buttress, which is to the left of the steep central wall of the Grochan. Descend by traversing into a gully on the left side of the cliff (looking in).

Protection [Edit]

Standard rack


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Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
5.9; 1947. Harding's big push - a must do. Great Ron James quote. His book was our bible. Oct 27, 2012

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