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Routes in Clogwyn y Grochan

Brant Direct T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nea T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Spectre T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Peter Harding, 1947
Page Views: 160 total, 2/month
Shared By: Rob Davies UK on Nov 4, 2011
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Varied climbing with a classic crack on pitch 3.

P1 65' 5.8: From the lowest point of the buttress climb a crack, then a wall using a thin crack; carry on up, trending right to a tree belay beneath a groove.

P2 100' 5.9: Climb the groove (hard), crossing left at the top (thin) beneath a small overhang. Up a short groove then follow slabs rightwards to belay beneath a steep crack in the left wall.

P3 35' 5.9: "The crack is entered by a suitable method. Layback for the bold, mantleshelf for the gymnast or belly-roll and leg-kicking for the masses. Once entered, the trap is sprung, for retreat is virtually impossible and the exit is extremely hard. Hand-jamming and foot-scraping seem the usual techniques required" (Ron James, 1970).

P4 100' 5.7: Traverse on to the left wall and climb this steeply. Abseil (50 m) from spikes or continue to the top.

Location

Spectre is on Goat's Buttress, which is to the left of the steep central wall of the Grochan. Descend by traversing into a gully on the left side of the cliff (looking in).

Protection

Standard rack

Photos

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Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
5.9; 1947. Harding's big push - a must do. Great Ron James quote. His book was our bible. Oct 27, 2012