Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,084 total · 13/month
Shared By: MacM on Nov 3, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Best High Rappel Beginner Climb-keeps any leader interested.

Pitch 1: Just right of the large right-facing dihedral start by oak trees. Climb thin corner (5.4) to a narrow shelf then traverse left 10' Climb up small chimney to tiny ledge, step back onto face (Crux, 5.5) clip old bolt and continue up crack to belay ledge with Fixed/Glued Piton.

Pitch 2: Step up slab from belay and follow easy cracks to the summit slabs.

EDIT: Follow the EASY crack system that starts above small slab on the upper-left of belay, dihedral to the right is a .10a variation (Presidente).

Location

Start at the base next to Oak trees right of a large right-facing dihedral. Scramble off back side to the Descent Gully.

Protection

Stoppers, Small to large cams to #4 C4. 20' Sling to wrap around massive horn/protrusion for second belay. Anchors on top, 3 Bolts w/ two hangers.

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William Nelson
Cave Creek, AZ
  5.9
William Nelson   Cave Creek, AZ
  5.9
Just lead this yesterday and was warned from a local that it isn't 5.5 and and that it had a couple 5.10 moves. The first pitch is exciting and it's at least a 5.8/9. The second pitch is 5.5. I threw a hex in the first crack and used a BD # 4 and forced a #5 in the hand crack after clipping the bolt on the traverse out of the chimney. Jun 2, 2013
Zschultz
Prescott, AZ
  5.6
Zschultz   Prescott, AZ
  5.6
Protecting the traverse on the first pitch creates a lot of rope drag.. There's an old bolt hanger on the right face and an older piton on the left chimney wall. Other pro as well. Second pitch is great! And cruiser! Not sure where belay is? There are bolts for a different climb that can be used over top. Apr 21, 2015
Kody Cox
Camp Verde, AZ
 
Kody Cox   Camp Verde, AZ
 
There are only 2 bolts on top, the 3rd one is broke. Nov 22, 2016