Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 136 total · 2/month
Shared By: MacM on Nov 3, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Begin at Debutante and follow up to second belay stance.
Pitch 1: Just right of the large right-facing dihedral start by oak trees. Climb thin corner (5.4) to a narrow shelf then traverse left 10' Climb up past a flake and move up a bottoming crack to a belay ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb up right across a slab to the base of a left-facing corner and below a lichen-covered pillar. Climb up the cracks in the corner (5.10a) past a bolt to the summit belay.

Location

Start at Debutante, then at second belay climb right to bolt then straight up. Scramble off back side to Descent Gully.

Protection

Wide selection of gear, Small to Large cams to #4 C4. TCU's and stoppers as well. One Fixed/glued Piton for belay anchor at ledge.

Photos

Dominic Metcalf
Leesburg, VA
 
Dominic Metcalf   Leesburg, VA
 
Felt less than 5.10a. More like a 5.9. Still a fun route! Oct 11, 2012
Guidebook from the 80's has this as a variation to missing link and rates it at 5.9. A rap chain has been added at the top; 35 meters or 115 feet to the ground. Oct 29, 2012
Presidente Direct is a direct start from the ground to the upper dihedral. Climb up the very shallow right facing corner to ledge and continue past two new bolts (10) and continue past bolt on missing link. Continue face climbing with good gear upward into El Presidente's dihedral. This variation climbed in 1990 with very bad gear. Retro-bolted in 2012. Sep 30, 2013
J tot
Tempe, AZ
  5.10
J tot   Tempe, AZ
  5.10
This can be done in 1 pitch to the chains and lower off with a 70M... tie some a stopper knot and be prepared for a off belay a foot or two of the ground. Nov 3, 2014