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Routes in Oaklands

All Natural S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ball Sports T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Biz NAZ, The S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Black Attack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Chalk Troll V7 7A+
Choir Boy T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Control Freak S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Coxspel, The S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Crazy Fool S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dish Network S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Fat Lip Dip T,S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fir Real T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freedom of the Hills S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joycone S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Jug a Low T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Keepin' It Real S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Little Black Book T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Man for the Job T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mojo T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oak Wild S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Oaksterdam T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Praylord finish T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quannum S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Red Dream S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ride the Snake T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riot Act S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Runaway Train S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sporting the Line T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Steep Treats S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Stepchild S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sun Shower S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Up the 9 T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wanker Rail, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
jesus jugs T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Cox, Crawley, Bloom, Jones
Page Views: 58 total, 1/month
Shared By: Colin Cox on Nov 3, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a nice 5.10 start, beginning with an interesting move before the first clip. Approach the Wanker Rail with a devious sequence of hand switches on the arete, avoiding the urge to pull up and right into Man For the Job. This section may feel contrived, but the Rail needed to be climbed. Clip the crux bolt and stay low on good feet and small crimps, then creep up left on the Wanker Rail with some hidden holds way out left. Pimp the rail past another bolt to a ledge, finish up the slabby dihedral.

Location

Starts just left of Stepchild.

Protection

7 bolts

Photos

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