PRINT: Rock Climb Fashion Direct, 3. Piedmont Region

Fashion Direct

5.12c, Sport,

Avg: 2.8 from 14 votes
FA: Diab Rabie
N Carolina > 3. Piedmont Region > Crowders Mountain > Main Climbing A… > 06. Red Wall

Description

Due to a hold breaking, what was once considered a (5.11d) alternate start is now been recognized by many as a solid (5.12).

Start left of the The Gimp under the first bolt. Technical face climbing on crimps and jibs lead to easier terrain after the second bolt... hope I haven't said too much.

Enjoy what many consider a classic line!

Location

Right of Fashion

Left of The Gimp

Protection

Six bolts (some recently replaced) to a NEW ANCHOR!!

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Erica starting the second crux using short person beta

Canaan Thumberclinging on Fashion Direct

Steve starting the second crux.

Steve on the first crux

Red Wall<br>
<br>
Fashion Direct(5.12c) sport (pre-clipped)<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina

Red Wall Fashion Direct(5.12c) sport (pre-clipped) Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina

Red Wall<br>
<br>
Thumbdercling!<br>
Fashion Direct (5.12c)<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carlina

Red Wall Thumbdercling! Fashion Direct (5.12c) Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carlina

Red Wall<br>
<br>
Fashion Direct (5.12c)<br>
<br>
Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina

Red Wall Fashion Direct (5.12c) Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bennett Harris
Charlotte, NC

Hey a friend of mine and myself went out to do Fashion yesterday. We tried the direct start and both did that section clean first try. I honestly didn't think it made the climb any harder than it's original grade. Thoughts? Feb 21, 2012

Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO

topnews.net.nz/images/spray…> Feb 22, 2012

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

5.12b/c

:D
Nice! Feb 22, 2012

Erica Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

Eddie, those were my thoughts exactly. ;) Feb 22, 2012

Bennett Harris
Charlotte, NC

haha, touche touche :) Feb 22, 2012

Patrick Dukes
Nashville TN

Anyone have beta for moving from the rest ledge to just past the second bolt? The wall almost totally blank and I'm not sure how closely the route is supposed to follow the bolt line there. All the other moves go no problem! Jul 28, 2020

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

5.12b/c

Patrick, not sure how tall you are but i'm 6'1" and below was my beta. For the first move after the rest ledge, you can see a picture of me doing it above labeled "Steve starting the second crux"

Get LH on ok sidepull and RH on better one. Move LF up onto jug flake and RF onto good smear. LH to undercling below bolt and start standing up. Look down after and get RF onto good foot hold and then go LH to good crimp above. Get RH onto bad sidepull and get LF up onto small edge and RF onto jug feet out right. RH to good gaston out right and then move feet up again with LF on very small cresent hold (bottom part is best) and RF onto slopey dish and cross RH to good crimp above. LH to sidepull with incut section, LF up onto ok smear with heel facing more out like a smear instead of in like edging, and then go LH to good gaston above. Get thumb in on gaston, smear RF up and get LF onto good foot crimp and RF onto gaston hold out right. Clip with RH.

My wife, who is 5'5" had much different beta, here is hers and I uploaded a picture of her starting the second crux labeled "Erica starting the second crux using short person beta”:

Get stood up on the bulge via a small RH pointed crimper, stab out LH gaston on bad part of razor flake, inch body over, step LF over, match RH on good part of razor flake, and move LH to good crimp. Shuffle RF up once, LF up to side rail. KEEP CORE TIGHT and hit sidepull with LH, then step RF through on divot and get high LF on good crimper. RH to crimp, LH to gaston, RF up, then clip. Jul 29, 2020