Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Ken Ariza et al, 1988
Page Views: 410 total · 5/month
Shared By: Lou Hibbard on Nov 2, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This is a unique route in that you must first climb another route and then rappel to the beginning of the route (which starts just above a roof). A very nice climb.

Location

Scope out the approach to Apathy Buttress. You can either lead Water Babies (5.11a one star, recommended) or 2 1/2 pitches of Apathy Buttress (5.9) to rappel to the route. If you choose Apathy Butress be prepared for perhaps excavating dirt out of the crack to get gear, swinging around on big, loose, stacked blocks, and other such adventure. Apathy Buttress is the way we took and then we rappelled to the top of Back To The Slammer. From there we rappeled to the start of the climb and set up the hanging belay. The belay is hanging but it is not all that steep.

Protection

Standard rack. As I recall, the climb itself takes mostly small to medium gear but depending on which route you lead to approach the climb you need to adjust the rack accordingly.
Bring extra small to medium gear for the hanging belay just above the roof. There is no fixed anchor at the base.

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